Bead Stone Setting
Bead stone setting places a stone directly into a piece of metal jewellery using the tool gravers, which are also called burins. Each hole is drilled directly into the surface and then a tool is used to make a precise concave in which the stone is placed.
Flush Stone Setting
A flush setting is also called a ‘burnish’ or ‘gypsy’ setting. In a flush stone setting, each stone is set in a tapered hole on the surface of a jewellery piece. To secure the stone, the surrounding metal is hammered around it to hold it in place, making it ‘flush’ with the surface. Only the stone's crown is exposed and the smooth, protective setting won’t snag on clothing.
Claw Stone Setting/Prong Stone Setting
This stone setting style features narrow metal supports called prongs or claws which hold the stone in place. The raised setting emphasises the stone to allow the maximum amount of light to enter it. However, it also leaves the stone exposed with little support of its edges. This stone setting requires regular check-ups to ensure it remains secure.
Peg Stone Setting
The peg stone setting is also known as the ‘half-drill’ setting. It is traditionally used for pearls. A pearl or other spherically cut stone is drilled halfway through and attached to a mounting with a peg. The peg is coated with a small amount of adhesive to prevent the stone from moving. The mounting may have additional metal surrounding the stone, but is largely an ornamental feature. Since there are no claws or prongs, the stone appears to float to give the jewellery piece a light and graceful appearance.
Mother of Pearl Inlay Setting
The mother of pearl inlay setting is created with traditional techniques that require 18 different steps.
Small pieces of mother of pearl are shaped as squares, moons or stars and placed piece by piece onto a resin or acrylic base using a special adhesive.
The colour of the base enhances the natural colour of the mother or pearl, which is then baked in an oven to cure and strengthen the adhesive. The mosaic is then polished to a high shine before being assembled on jewellery.